Project EXI

The building of a Marlin 5EXi kit car, using a Seat Leon 1.8T 20v Donor

May 04 2010

Wiring loom frame


Set about making the wiring loom frame to allow me to duplicate my wiring loom for future Marlin customers.
Built on a 6ft by 4ft OSB board, pegged out with screws for bends and joins, then marked with marker pen indentifying the cable routes and termination points. It should assist with manufacturing of looms. Estimates goto about 3 hours per loom. First one should roll off tomorrow night.
Hopefully will have 2 ready by the weekend and I can deliver them to Marlin in exchange for some parts.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

May 03 2010

Center console switches


Today I set about making a center console so I can mount my switches on. I made it from 2.5mm thick aluminum plate. It will fix to the gear stick nuts, and bolt to the underside of the dashboard. The holes are 48mm x 130mm, and will take 5 switches each. I have left spaces for additional switch, that I may need in the future. Such as front screen heater demist, radiator fan override.
I will leave the aluminum unpainted as the brushed effect with black switches and black trim is effective
The space in the dashboard I might use for a stereo or data logger, at the moment neither will be fitted.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

May 02 2010

Stoneleigh Kit Car Show

Went to the stoneleigh Kit Car show today, managed to get some of the intercooler connection hoses that I will need from Viper Performance. I also need some special made up, so Daniel will hopefully give me a call that he can make up some reducing elbows I need.
Also managed to pick up a few useful bits and pieces, brake pipe bending tool, storage boxes, 8mm to 10mm fuel hose adapter, 10mm T-piece, drill and angle grinder cleaning and grinding parts.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 27 2010

HP Fuel pump location


Looking at the position I put the fuel pump again, I thought it would ease the routing of fuel lines, if the pump was moved to sit just below the swirl pot. So I moved it there instead, and use blanking grommets to fill the original holes in.
I then set about connecting fuels lines to the engine and the swirl pot.
Instead of running copper pipe to the low pressure fuel pump inthe front, I am now considering running some 10mm rubber fuel lines.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 26 2010

HP Fuel pump mounting


Found a sutiable bracket that can be adpater to fit the cylindrical high pressure fuel pump to the rear bulkhead. Using a custom jubliee clip kit, I have wrapped this around the bracket, and protected the foam on the fuel pump with a piece of plastic.
I have tucked the fuel pump out of the way near the roll bar behind the driver. It seems like a good place to mount it, all depends on how the hoses connected and if they can fed to the location without any problem

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 24 2010

ECU Mounting


I set about figuring out how to mount the ECU to the rear bulkhead. On the ECU there are four small posts, so I made up some Z brackets to hookk over the four posts, which I can then bolt to the rear bulkhead, I can pack them with some small rubber grommets, and this should be ok for the ECU.
I also set about giving the ECU a polish, so with the a wire brush, and some autosol metal ploish, the ECU should be ok without a paint.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: ecu

Apr 23 2010

Fitting Accelerator to pedal box bracket


I removed the pedal box gave it a clean with a wire brush and re-paitned it with some enamel paint. Cured the paint with a heat gun and fitted it back to the front bulkhead.
Fitted the 3 master cylinders with M8 bolts, and space the clutch cyclinder with 2 M8 nuts, so all 3 pedals are align with each other.
Next i went on to figure out how to mount the ECU, I felt it best to make 4 brackets out of aluminium flat bar, bent into a Z shape, with 7.5mm holes that fit over the pins on the ECU, the Z bars can then be bolted to the rear bulkhead. This should then hold the ECU tightly in place.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 22 2010

Pedal box Accelerator bracket


I got some hi-tensile bolts and have had these welded in place by a neighbor. The accelerator mounting plate was then welded onto the edge of the Marlin supplied pedal box.
I then set about tidying up the plate by following the edge of the accelerator and angle grinding of the excess. This then gives the appearence that the accelerator pedal "floats" next to the brake pedal and clutch pedal.
Really pleased with the results, next to clean it and give it a coat of enamel paint to finish it off after all the modifications to it.
Once painted I can then go for permanent fix to the front bulkhead.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 21 2010

Pedal box can be mounted lower now rack is further away


I've had remove the temporary fixing I made to mount the accelerator, and to make a more permanent fixing. The solution is to use a piece of 50mmx3mm flat bar, about 150mm long. and to weld it over the top the existing pedal box mounting lugs, drill through the flat bar through the lugs and countersink this hole. from the reverse side of the flat bar, mount the accelerator pedal with welded in counter sunk bolts. The pedal box can the be fixed to the front bulkhead & chassis, then the accelerator pedal mounted afterwards on the welded in countersunk bolts. I have started to re-cut the holes in the front bulkhead for the master cyclinders, just how to figure out a way to patch the previous holes. Perhaps a small aluminium sheet rivetted over will and sealed will be ok.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 20 2010

Steering column modification new mount point


I've now cleaned up the smaller of the two brackets and rounded off the edges.
The change in the steering column setup is huge, and I would recommend this modification to anyone using a VAG column, in fact I dont think it is possible to use a VAG column without it.
Once fitted i set above removing the pedal box and repositioning it alot lower than before.
I've moved it as low as I can make it, to still maintain clearence between the universal joint and and balance bar. I have been able to lower the pedal assembly by 65mm, so now the horizontal center line of the brake pedal is 180mm above the floorpan. It used to be 245mm above the floorpan, unless you have size 18 feet, this was never going to work.
The pedals now sit on the balls of my feet, instead of the tips of my toes.
The brake pedal can be depressed all the way down, and will swing all the way up, without hitting the steering column anywhere.
Good result,
Will refit the pedal box tomorrow, and go from there.
Will have to change the accelerator mount to fit, might try angle bracket route, welded to the side of the pedal box
This may also fix another problem, I couldnt get the brake fluid to fit above the master cylinders, now these are lower (attached to the pedal box) there may be enough room to mount these above it. Much better position!!

Posted by Steve | Permanent link
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